By Jayson Delisle
Midweek in early October, we drove slowly into the historic district of Smithfield, Virginia after a day spent traveling the quiet backroads from North Carolina. The cotton fields, brightening the edge of the two lane road, diminished just outside of town. Main Street ends at Wharf Hill’s overlook of the green marshland where the Pagan River, slides to the James, and, beyond, the Chesapeake; the Atlantic. This was a river town in a time when the roads were rivers and rivers meant prosperity. Prosperity remains in Smithfield thanks to the Southern breakfast staples of salt-cured and wood-smoked Virginia Ham. You can’t miss it here.
We parked on Main Street in historic downtown, as the gray clouds and scattered showers packed up for the weekend. Heather put on her walking shoes while I quickly ducked into the well-stocked visitor’s center to gain my bearings. OK. We are in “Isle of Wight” County. Think England, think colonies. In America, towns don’t get much more historic. Remember now, the neighbors are Jamestown and Williamsburg. So what separates Smithfield from these regal relics? As a local shop owner casually confided, “…the Williamsburg locals come here to get away from the crowds and the commercialism.” Heather and I glanced briefly at each other because, in full disclosure, 1) we were headed to Williamsburg and 2) we obviously have an affinity and appreciation for small gateway towns. During our short stay in Smithfield, we held on to the shop keeper’s comments as we took our time exploring by foot.
Boutiques of many sorts and sizes lined the pedestrian friendly thoroughfare. Grand Victorian homes now housed quaint and colorful shops selling eclectic apparel and playful pet products. We toured art galleries and open studios and chatted with the creative folks. Photo opportunities abounded. A large, bronzed Benjamin Franklin sat on a bench reading his paper. Another bench-bound sculpture down the block was of an elderly valentine couple. “Sit and stay awhile” they implied. The Ice Cream Parlor and lunch counter hummed with late afternoon activity.
A helpful shop owner offered some recent history regarding a bout of storms that left the beloved Isle of Wight Museum wet and worn. The town was now anxiously anticipating its grand reopening. It is comforting to hear the townspeople cherishing their history and their renewal. The sun was coming out.
As our planned time elapsed, and our curiosity yet remained, we decided we would return through 
Smithfield, to have a meal (and ice cream!) and visit the historic Ivy Hill Cemetery on our way back from Williamsburg. You have to wander these old towns to experience their charm and learn from their locals. As we headed out, towards the free vehicle ferry across the river, we slowed near the immense ham processing plant. Shifts were changing and the lifeblood of the town was coming and going. I’ll think of these people and this old river town next time I’m enjoying my morning ham biscuit. And next time we’ll bring the canoe.
Tags: Isle of Wight, review, Smithfield, Travel, VA, Williamsburg
